What is it about saimin?

i want icecream

Hi Mari! You're right, saimin itself is pretty "meh." Sometimes when I'm sick, I get it from Zippy's and then wonder, "Why am I even eating this?" But somehow, it makes me feel better.

I can't think of a better way to express locals' love for saimin than the words of Arnold Hiura, author of "Kau Kau: Cuisine & Culture in the Hawaiian Islands":

"The true power of comfort food, however, has more to do with context than it does with content. It has more to do, in other words, with the love that permeated oneu00e2u0080u0099s familyu00e2u0080u0099s kitchen than the freshly baked cookies and cold glass of milk enjoyed there, or the comfort of being nursed back to health rather than the curative properties of soup itself, or the company of old childhood friends rather than the drive-ins frequented with them."

The sentiment resonates with me since I'm the kind of gal who puts julienned carrots into my fried rice when I make it (even though I *HATE* carrots) purely because that's how my mom made it.

I had saimin this morning at Zippy's. My stomach was upset, and it was the only thing I could think of that would settle it at 8 a.m. It's simple, you know exactly what to expect and it's good to eat at any time of the day or night. Hmmm, sounds like a good breakfast for tomorrow. Does anyone know of a place in town besides Zippy's (or Like Like) where you can get saimin really early in the morning?

this is amazing. some ppl love saimin bc they've known v good saimin, made from scratch w/ pork bones. some ppl (ok, me and badcat808) do not like saimin. and many ppl say saimin is ok but it's the happy, secure memories of childhood that make saimin special.

i love all these stories that are coming out. every one of them recalls saimin as an act of love from someone special. this really makes my day.

I love noodles from most ethnic groups, but my taste preferences have definitely evolved over the years. I grew up being quite fond of saimin and wun tun mein, and it was almost a comfort food along with the combination soups from Korean restaurants. I know the "meh" bowls of saimin you're talking about, but I was fortunate enough to have a great aunt who made her own noodles from scratch . . . firm, delicious, never-mushy noodles if prepared right, of course. My mom also knew just the right saimin stands to take me to in Waipahu and, of course, Hamura Saimin, so I must say the saimin in my life remained quite memorable. Then, while raising children, someone introduced me to pho . . . AND THAT WAS IT!!! Saimin and Korean combination soups became almost absent in my diet. The aromatic bowl of pho is still a favorite, and I start having withdrawals it if I haven't had a bowl for a couple weeks. In recent years, I've had very tasty ramen in Japan, which was much, much better than anything available in Honolulu. However, new ramen places have popped up here and they are quite good and fairly close to what I've had in Japan. I consider ramen a close cousin of saimin, but pho still rules.

Wow @nonstopmari! You seem to have struck a reminiscent nerve for everyone. Who would have thought, saimin as therapy!

My family doesn't really care for noodles, I guess that's why I have no story. I've developed a taste for it on my own and love to cook it all kinds of ways.

EO:
I guess this poor folk version of ramen is not in your cultural history. As a young kid, if we came home with a good report card, Mom and Dad would treat us by going out and having SAIMIN! Recollections of sitting in a small restaurant with 4 tables and wooden stools (original Sekiyas between Waialae and Harding on Kapahulu). When your family is not rich, going out to eat anywhere is a trip! Saimin with BBQ stick was about 35 cents. Those memories are imprinted. The joy of eating out, with family, still in your pajamas was quite the thing. Culinary wise it was not something to write home about...it was more the whole deal of having a family time. You are correct that most saimin leaves much to be desired from a taste stand point. Broth is salty and thin (nobody could afford pork), noodles were usually only white flour as eggs were quite a luxury, green onions from the back yard, and kamaboko was cheap since it was mostly swordfish that was tough and oily. Even Palace Saimin is not the greatest as it once was. Tanoue's is gone. Sekiyas had sanitation issues. Hall saimin is gone. Shiro's is a joke. Bottom line: Saimin is essentially dead, only those of us with long memories fondly remember. Ramen truthfully, tastes way better. Do you remember Tan Po Po (the movie)?

I love saimin since I was a little kid. I had to cook saimin everyday for my dad when he came home from work (plantation). Throw in some luncheon meat and fresh green onions from the garden.

Yeah, saimin is definitely comfort food. I remember my mom making it for lunch, and yes, I have made it for my son for lunch, the dried stuff in the packages. Saimin warms the soul, and many times my mom would also warm up a small can of vienna sausages (still love the stuff with sugar/shoyu or osato shoyu as my mom would say) as the "meat" in the meal. I grew up in a small plantation town on the Big Island where saimin was served at every Bon Dance. It elicits memories of my childhood when my dad used to work for the plantation. I'm sad I cannot even get S&S noodles where I presently live. While it may not be the epitome of cuisine, the ability to pull us back to our childhood is strong. It's okay to not like saimin Mari. ;)

i've eaten more ramen than saimin but it's history of plantation catch-as- catch-can staple in Hawaii, puts me in mind of some of the foods of the American south. foods i grew up with, but were sneered at by my yankee, excuse me, northern relatives, the few the proud the frozen.

grits: how do you get someone to try it after you explain about the lye? chittlins: any Vietnamese would say yeah, sounds right to me, but a farmer in western PA? nah. polk: the damn berries are poisonous, for christ's sake. possum: my wife's grandfather took one out with a two by four then yelled into the house- 'Bessie, throw a load 'a wood in the stove, i got dinner.

i guess even bad food or plain food or strange food is comforting if you can rely on getting it every day. if you got a long day chopping cane or cutting pineapples, you need to get some calories.

Aw, I love saimin, even the kind in a Styrofoam bowl with dehydrated vegetables. Can we still be friends?

I used to love saimin until discovered ramen. After that, it's been ramen all the way. Ramen has much more flavor and salt.

I concur with the statements that saimin is your basic local comfort food. Like many, I grew up eating S & S, and many a time eating Zippy's saimin after a late night. In fact, it was the first meal I had at home when I came back from the sandbox, Zippy's being the only thing open around my place at that time. It was light, satisfiying and told me in no uncertain terms that I was home.

BTW, I believe the Hilo place you're referring to is Nori's. One of the places we would eat at when we came down the hill from Pohakuloa after our training.

For me it started when I was a child growing up. When my mother was a highscholl teacher I used to go to the football games and sit in the outdoor stands eating a nive hot bowl of s&s saimin. From there it grew as a staple of my diet. When ever I travel away and go to the mainland I crave that hot bowl of local comfort food that seems grounded in these islands. You could say it's a dish that always brings back good memories of home.

Hey Mari,

I don't really care for saimin either. It's one of my last choices on the menu when I go out to eat. Or it's my first choice if I feel sick. It's bland and the soup is just salty water. I don't like kamaboko either. I guess I was born to eat ramen!

Hello Mari,

You are right, I think you are the only person I know that hates saimin. How can that be? That's the basic comfort food in the islands besides spam. How can you be local and hate saimin?

Like Harry said. It' plain comfort food. What are/were your expectations Mari? Do you have a "taste" in mind that local Saimin doesn't quite meet? Living in LA, we don't have too many choices for Saimin but we have a plethora of Excellent Ramen places. Rich, oily Tonkotsu broth, so rich, it almost tastes like gravy. Shops that make ramen noodles on premises. Festivals where chefs come in from Japan to share their craft. If I were comparing local Saimin to these, I'm sure each and every one would fall short but if I'm in the "mood" for Zippy's fast food saimin, that is what I would expect.

I too like the pork based broth. Add some roast pork. Oh yum

The traditional soup base that I see others make for their Saimin is Shrimp Shell based. It works for me too but I prefer a Pork based broth.

Saimin, plain comfort food. No I'm not talking about that nasty stuff that comes in a plastic container and you just add hot water or those deep fried ones that come in a self sealed plastic bag for about $0.50 a bag. I'm talking about FRESH, RIGHT OUT OF THE NOODLE FACTORY SAIMIN.

Two types: Flour Based and Egg Based. Flour based takes a little bit longer to cook and needs to have the cooking water changed or refreshed. Egg base can be cooked without a mandatory water change for each serving.

Depending on what kind of flour is used the Saimin can take on a shade of white to a dark medium shade of brown.

I like my Saimin on the El Dente side. Just a bit of resistance when biting into the noodles. The flour based Saimin can take a little bit of overcooking and still come out El Dente. The Egg based needs to be taken out before it's fully cooked so that the residual heat cooks the noodles.

If I know I'm going to make a batch of Saimin, I'll start prepping for the broth by picking up some Pork Bones (with Marrow) and the Country Cut Pork Ribs. For a richer flavor you can roast the bones and ribs before slow boiling them. I don't have time now so I just throw the bones and ribs into a pot of cold water and start cleaning off the scum as it comes to a boil. Turning the heat down I'll slow boil it for a couple of hours while skimming the oil off. You can add whatever flavorings you want too: Ginger, Garlic, Salt, Pepper, Anise, Chinese Five Spice, etc.

While the soup is slow boiling start the prep for the toppings. I'll usually have Baby Bok Choi, Mustard Cabbage, or some type of greens in the fridge including Green Onions. [I cut my Green Onions on an extreme bias instead of little rounds. Easier to grab the Green Onions if it's on a bias.] A quick blanch of the greens and I'm done. As for protein, some Chinese Roast Pork or some Char Siu is fine for me. If not Spam works just as good for me.

With everything in place (soup, veggies, toppings) it's time to cook the Samin. You'll just need to experiment with the noodles to see how hard, firm, or soft you like it. Each type of noodle has a different cooking time so your preference will vary.

Grab your bowl; shake off the excess cooking water; lay the Saimin down, add your toppings; ladle on the soup; grab your chopsticks and grind!

In a pinch, if I want Saimin for a quick meal. I'll cook it, drain it, and then just top it off with a good grade Oyster Sauce (not the $0.99 Long's item) which is always in my frigde, Sesame Oil, and fresh ground Black Pepper.

Now that's only the noodles and my style of eating Saimin. In a future blog you need to discuss Won Ton or Dumplings.