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My lovely durian: The reveal

Sharing durian love around Honolulu. Bonus video: 6 grown men’s first taste


In my euphoria over acquiring a whole 7.4-pound durian over the weekend, I publicly announced my love for the stinky fruit and offered a taste to fellow durian fans. There weren’t many takers.

“In Hong Kong, we’re legally allowed to chop off the hands of people carrying durian — j/k,” @rickyli99 tweeted.

“You should smell @NonStopMari, she’s been eating it fresh lately,” tweeted @Melissa808.

“Eww, I’m not standing by you!” from @harrycovair.

On this site, Erica and bettydalycity posted comments about co-workers who brought durian to work and inadvertently triggered evacuations. Wrote betty, “Customers started to say smells like a gas leak around here and left fast.”

And I thought saimin abuse was bad. In my new depths of unpopularity, people I approach with my prized durian make stinky face and recoil. If I hear any more jokes involving the word ‘upwind,’ I swear I’ll show up and smear you with the divine stink.

All of which makes me appreciate fellow durian lovers like @c_chan808 all the more. c_chan sent a link to a site that carefully instructed how to tell when a durian is perfectly ready to eat. So I’m passing on that durian love with this, my own illustrated guide to opening a durian.

Caution: Use old dish towels to pick up the fruit. The spikes can cut your hands, and you’ll need a good grip when you’re cutting.

Inhale the aroma. It should be rich, fruity and overpowering — nothing less. If the smell makes someone gag, that’s a good clue.

Listen. Pick up the durian and shake it (carefully! I stabbed myself in the cheek). If you hear rattling, the fruit’s not ripe enough. If you hear nothing, it’s overripe. If you hear very faint, muted thuds, your durian is primo.

Look for the star. Each durian is divided into five sections whose faint brown outlines you can see radiating out from the base of the fruit. Get a big, sharp chef’s knife and cut an inch into and along these lines.

Scoop out pods and eat. Yum! See how custardy-soft the fruit is? You can use a spoon, but if you revel in the texture like me, you’ll want to get your fingers in there and lick and slurp until you reach the pit.

Finally, deodorize your mouth, face and hands. If you’re a messy eater like me, you’ll want to wash your lips, chin and hands. Then brush your teeth. Here’s advice from harrycovair, who slurped up his durian and then went to work: “Use mouthwash to get rid of the taste. Then swallow it so that you don’t burp up the durian smell and drink a couple more shots of mouthwash while you’re at it.”

Thanks to c_chan, I opened my durian at its prime on Sunday evening. Not only is it the best durian I’ve ever had — grown locally by Wailea Ag on the Hamakua Coast and a bargain at $4.50 a pound, trust me — it also has the smallest pits ever, which means even more flesh to slurp!

I’ve shared my goopy pods with c_chan, Lucy, Ray the plumber, harrycovair and Alan Okami, who assembled five of his guys at Koaloha Ukulele to share in his durian initiation. Thank you, Koaloha! Sorry about the rough camera work.

And despite what you see in the video, durian is really, truly magnificent.

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dwaters59 5 pts

No one mentions the consistency. If it were crunchy like a coconut, or built like a citrus fruit some might like it better. My wife can't get past the texture of many things I enjoy.

nonstopmari 245 pts

dwaters59 i guess the consistency, as u know, is like slightly stringy pudding ... in a fruit pod. the more custardy and runny, the more delish, don't u think??

dwaters59 5 pts

nonstopmari dwaters59 I have not had it YET! Though in my travels I have enjoyed many new things that my wife finds unappealing. :o)

nonstopmari 245 pts

Camillesonwheel gida says it's end of season already :( . i also read that durian has 2 seasons per year, tho don't know if that holds for hawaii. xxing fingers...

badcat808 11 pts

nonstopmari I was telling a friend about your durian fetish and she said while she was in Singapore the trains had large signs with a large red "No" symbol (circle with line through it) on a pic of a durian! LOL

WatermarkHawaii 7 pts

I wonder if there's some sort of gene some people have that makes them like it? Like how some people get that weird metallic feeling on their teeth from eating spinach and others don't (or how asparagus, um, "affects" some people and doesn't others)? Mari's so insistent about the fruity taste, but only one of those poor guys said he could detect anything fruity!

nonstopmari 245 pts

WatermarkHawaii yeah, the one who liked it, right? 2 retched so didn't do much discerning, alan and one other detected avocado and onions. for the record, durian is VERY popular in southeast asia and commands a good price, even in vietnam, where a bowl of pho is well under $1. we routinely paid $10 or more for durian and had no problems w/ storage bc it was gone w/in minutes of being cut open.

Melissa808 268 pts

The video was hard to watch, but I'll vouch that it's probably reflective of the worldwide percentages of people who try durian. Most people who will absolutely wretch, barf, and/or convulse at the taste, if they can even make it past the smell. Then there's a small percentage of people who will say, "Hey, that's not bad, maybe even pretty good." And then there's the really really small percentage of folks, like Mari, who love it and seek it out!

I eat durian and I like it, but I don't love it enough to pay that kind of money for it. I'm realistic about the smell, too! The revulsion is probably a mental thing.

My preference is to eat it a little colder, not room temp, because I like fruits that way. The taste, for me, is much like a plantain. Anyway, good job, guys! At least you've tried it.

nonstopmari 245 pts

Melissa808 will score another durian in 1.5 weeks. will chill ur portion before delivery.

harrycovair 77 pts

nonstopmari Melissa808 I'm not sure if this is true or not but for me if I chill the Durian before cutting it, the smell is not so overpowering. To me the smell is like a sports locker room that hasn't been disinfected or washed down for a while.

turkfontaine 202 pts

that was majorly intense. kinda like the vegetarian equivalent of chasing down a rutting raindeer on the tundra, wrestling it to the ground, biting off it's balls and eating them still steaming and screaming. but i don't like cold weather so that's why i'm not a Laplander.

thanks for the most graphic tutorial i've seen since i attended a cervical self examination demonstration at a NOW meeting in 1973. (yes, i was a member, but i joined to meet girls, not because i was enlightnened)

thanks also for explaining how to know when Durian is ripe, how to open it and how to eat it. if i'm going to eat one i want to do it right. now i'm really scared, those dudes were real men..

this video ranks right up there with Ed's Poetry Slam blog entry.

nonstopmari 245 pts

turkfontaine wow turk, i'm sensing a strong association for u btwn durian and certain female body parts. i wonder what u'd say if u actually tried durian? :>

turkfontaine 202 pts

nonstopmari yeah, and the same for sex, which i'd also like to experience someday.

harrycovair 77 pts

turkfontaine We'll be sure to save some fermented Durian for you when you get here next month. If you can eat Harm Ha or Bagoong (Chinese and Philipino Preserved Shrimp Sauce respectively) you can eat Durian.

nonstopmari 245 pts

harrycovair turkfontaine must disagree. cannot eat bagoong, tho i like harm ha. and what abt shiokara (fermented squid etc guts?). will eat only under duress. but i LOVE durian.

Melissa808 268 pts

nonstopmari hmmm. You have a very strange palate! harrycovair turkfontaine

nonstopmari 245 pts

Melissa808 harrycovair turkfontaine actually, to me durian doesn't have a fermented taste or scent at all. to me it's fruity and custardy, as i keep saying.

turkfontaine 202 pts

nonstopmari Melissa808 harrycovair i can't remember, was it Bourdain who liked Durian and Zimmern who didn't or was it the other way around?

nonstopmari 245 pts

turkfontaine Melissa808 harrycovair 1st way. but 99% of what zimmern eats, i cannot. btw have u ever tried scrapple? appears to be appalachian.

Melissa808 268 pts

turkfontaine nonstopmari harrycovair Zimmern didn't like durian OR Spam. Nor does he follow people back on Twitter. Just sayin.

I love scrapple!

GidaLicious 6 pts

Awesome Mari, glad you enjoyed it!! That makes the farmers market drive with a box of them in my car totally worth it !! I'll pass this on to Mike and Lesley at Wailea Ag.

Gida (market rep for Wailea Ag.)

nonstopmari 245 pts

GidaLicious i apc ur work, and i am so j that u get to drive ard w/ a whole carload of durian. *sigh* what a great job!

p.s. CassLovesSushi in comments below is asking if ppl can pre-order durian. also, is kcc the only oahu location where wailea ag sells durian?

Amy1 13 pts

It hard eat a food item when it has a strong odor that not so likeable. I try the durian fruit but could not get pass the smell . To many people it like gasoline very strong. I try buying the durian cookie waffer in Chinatown and took it home to eat. Open it and wow what a smell again unable to pass the smell to take one bit of the waffer at all . So I dump it in trash can in kitchen and later that day the whole house smell of the durian and family thought gas leak . Funny we have electric stove no gas.

Took waffer cookie out of kitchen trash can and dump it outside trash can and open widows and spay whole house .

nonstopmari 245 pts

Amy1 too funny! really LOLing at this one. SPRAYED THE HOUSE??!

CassLovesSushi 5 pts

Where does Wailea Ag sell their durian? Do we need to special order from them? My hubby LOVES LOVES LOVES (I mean, he can eat TWO whole ones in one sitting) them, but the frozen ones are gross.

nonstopmari 245 pts

CassLovesSushi hnlfarmers says kcc is the only one of the farm bureau markets where wailea ag sells. she says they'll be back not this satdy but next satdy 2/19. meanwhile, i put in a call to wailea re where they distribute on oahu and am waiting to hear back; will let u know!

nonstopmari 245 pts

CassLovesSushi wailea ag returned my call. they said they do sell around chinatown, but didn't say exactly where. GidaLicious distributes their durian at kcc and also the haleiwa fmrs' mkt, both every other week. gida + durian will be at both places this coming weekend.

u might try following GidaLicious on twitter if u need more specifics. good luck w/ ur durian hunt!

nonstopmari 245 pts

CassLovesSushi GidaLicious durian avlbl at wailea ag booth at kcc farmers mkt tmrw, 2/19! mangosteen too!

808marv 107 pts

I salute the brave men of Ko Aloha for the sacrifices they have made for this website. ;-) I guess it was a little hard once the first taster was coughing and his eyes started watering, that had to have had somewhat of a psychological effect on the rest of them. Funny that they guy who like me only tried durian chips also said it didn't smell as bad. But he did say it tasted like avocado with onions, hmm. Good idea to at least have it out in the open air! Anyway props to them again for giving it a try.

badcat808 11 pts

Oh, now I get it. I was looking at your twitter posting and thought you were talking about a rug. But it seemed like you were eating it so I was confused. Seems like everyone enjoyed it, but I will pass as it sounds like it smells as bad as natto!

nonstopmari 245 pts

badcat808 :D compared to durian, natto has no smell. besides which, durian smells sweet, fruity and intoxicating. lots of ppl can't even get to tasting it bc the smell is so overwhelming. i may be wrong, but i think w/ natto most discussion is abt the taste and texture?

808marv 107 pts

nonstopmari Yes you would be wrong! I could never get past the smell of natto to try it. My mom is still the only one in the family that likes it. Wow if you think natto has no smell no wonder you can handle durian haha.

Ynaku 78 pts

Ai da pua ting Brian. He was da guinea pig. And you got that stuff from the Big Island???? I better watch out when I go to the farmer's market downtown. They get some exotic fruits. Hmmm, maybe can get samples? Just look for the stall with plenty space around them :-)

nonstopmari 245 pts

Ynaku u got choke durian in hilo? lmk, i'll be over!

Ynaku 78 pts

nonstopmari Ynaku Nah I dunno. Haven't gone looking for it.....yet :)

seantaketa 11 pts

Good sports in Kalihi - too funny and hope no one got hurt.

nonstopmari 245 pts

seantaketa no one got hurt, tho i think there were a lot of guys in the koaloha bathroom brushing their teeth after that.

harrycovair 77 pts

Most people like to eat the Durian at room temp. It's like eating Vanilla Custard. No really... it TASTES LIKE Vanilla Custard. Pliable and melt in the mouth kind of softness. Just think of a ribbon of melted white chocolate (Vanilla flavored) just dissolving in your mouth.

I like to eat it cold, out of the fridge. It's like eating Taffy or Nougat, like the Big Hunk Candy without the peanuts. If you haven't tried it, go to Chinatown. I saw some being sold at Hong Kong Market, the site of old Wo Fat.

Just make sure you're cutting the fruit down by Sand Island on a strong tradewind day! The smell of the Sewage Treatment Plant will mask the smell of the Durian. 8-)

lihinggirl 40 pts

harrycovair i prefer durian cold too. i prefer most fruits cold. too bad i missed out on this taste session. thx nonstopmari for sharing this latest feast!

nonstopmari 245 pts

lihinggirl oh sry! i saw ur tweet but u said, 'enjoy!' so i thot u didn't want any. :/ i am already dreaming of my next durian and will tweet u for sure!

nonstopmari 245 pts

harrycovair how much is the hong kong market durian and do u know if it's fresh or previously frozen? affects taste/texture and a lot of the chinatown stuff is previously frozen.

lihinggirl 40 pts

nonstopmari lihinggirl ya, i wasn't sure if i could make the weekend u had a tasting. we'll c about the next one. =)

nonstopmari 245 pts

lihinggirl no tasting per se, i actually went ard delivering durian to ppl! i was the ambassador of durian love :>

lihinggirl 40 pts

nonstopmari wow, that's cool! altho my hubby @rainbowsig would NOT want me to bring it home. he doesn't like the smell; i'd have to eat it far away from our condo. =P

harrycovair 77 pts

nonstopmari I'll be in Chinatown on Saturday so I'll find out the scoops on Durian. I think I saw one other market carrying Durian also. Isn't it the end of the season for Durian?

jermel_lynn 15 pts

i loved this! I'm a durian virgin myself but this video makes it a lot more interesting. The guys in the video were hilarious! Great job Mari! :)

nonstopmari 245 pts

jermel_lynn thnx! next time u want to try a pod? :>

harrycovair 77 pts

jermel_lynn You're never going to know if you like it if you don't try it.

About Mari Taketa

Mari Taketa is a dedicated eater who's as opinionated as she is hungry. She covered everything from neighborhood mom-and-pop places to ethnic eateries to fine dining restaurants on Honolulu's dining scene for Metromix Honolulu and The Honolulu Advertiser's TGIF. Before that, she ate her way through Vietnam, Scotland and Japan, where she lived, traveled or worked, after recovering from a journalism career that included stints as editor-in-chief of Hawaii Business magazine and reporter and editor at The Associated Press. Her goals are to always be hungry for more, and to always want to know what's around the next corner.

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